|
Oven Hot Process Swirl-Layer |
||
|
 This tutorial explains swirling and layering techniques using the Oven Hot Process (OHP) method. All my soaps are made using the OHP method but I wanted that 'homogeneous' look that swirled Cold Process soaps are known for and to also incorporate a layer for a different visual effect utilizing the OHP method. In addition to the steps included in the OHP Swirl Tutorial, this tutorial includes extra steps for a layered effect. I've written a tutorial to explain this process. The swirl-layer technique included in this tutorial was developed to be used with the OHP method of soapmaking. Do not attempt this technique if you are not familiar with the OHP method and the swirling technique as described in my OHP Swirling Tutorial. If you would like to learn to create soap using the OHP method, please visit my Links page for a list of online resources. o This tutorial does not include a recipe so please provide your own recipe. o A recipe containing light-colored oils was used in this tutorial. o This tutorial is based on 32oz of oils. Longer cook and cool times will be required for larger batches. o This tutorial includes instructions for basic one-color, swirl-layered soaps. o Lye calculated using the MMS Lye Calculator o LabColours by Jen's Lab were used to color the soap mixture in this tutorial. Other color additives can be substituted. Follow manufacturers instructions. Color(s) achieved depends upon the product base, recipe, fixed oils and fragrance/essential oils used. o Hawaiian Rain FO from Tradewinds Fragrance was used to scent the soap mixture in this tutorial. o This tutorial assumes that the crafter has basic soapmaking skills, as there are much more details, concepts and techniques to beginning soapmaking that are beyond the scope of this tutorial. Acknowledgements I want to give special thanks to my father-in-law, Ron Harwood, for contributing his advice for this tutorial. Tools Two - Stainless steel pots Two - Stainless steel ladles Scale 1-2 Stick Blenders Wooden horizontal log mold dimensions: 3.5 x 2.5 x 8.0 inches. (Slab molds can also be used. Vertical log molds not recommended for this technique) Freezer Paper (or your choice of mold liner) Rubber spatula Small glass containers for FO's/EO's and color additives Protective eyewear Gloves Getting Started Calculate your recipe: weight of oils, lye and water using a Lye Calculator. It is recommended that the full amount of water that is calculated for your water portion of your recipe be used. Using the full amount of water helps to make the soap mixture easy to swirl and pour. Use necessary safety precautions when mixing lye and water. Weigh color additive and FO or EO. Weigh the empty pot before filling with oils. Use this pot as your "main" pot for the colored soap mixture. Note: For this tutorial, the recipe used was based on 32oz of oils, with 4% Lye discount and 10.8oz of distilled water. A 10% water discount was taken. Mixing Pre heat oven to 180ºF Slowly add lye to water stirring well to dissolve all crystals. When all lye crystals are dissolved thoroughly, add to oils. Blend with stick blender until a thin trace is obtained. Weigh pot and soap mixture. Calculate the weight of soap mixture by subtracting the weight of the pot from the weight of the soap mixture. Ex: My empty stainless steel pot weighs 24.8oz. After thin trace I weighed the pot and soap mixture for a total of 71.6oz. Pour up to ½ of soap mixture into second stainless steel pot. Leave this second pot of soap mixture uncolored (Fig 1.1). Note: For this tutorial, I poured 18oz of soap mixture into the second pot.
After pouring soap mixture into the second pot, use a rubber spatula to scrape the soap from the side of the "main" pot into bottom of the pot (Fig 1.2). Using a stick blender, blend the uncolored mixture until a thick trace is obtained (Fig 1.3). Cover pot.
Add color additive to the larger quantity of soap mixture. Using a stick blender, blend the color additive well into soap mixture (Fig 1.4 & 1.5). Note: Because I use LabColours Concentrated Solutions, which are diluted with distilled water, I prefer to add it to the raw soap mixture so that the excess water can be cooked out. Orange LabColours was used to color the soap mixture.
Blend until a thick trace is obtained (Fig 1.6). Cover pot.
Note: Other color variations can be created. Contrasting colors as well as using a lighter shade with a darker shade of the same color can be used to color the soap mixture. When using two or more colors, always blend and obtain a thick trace of the lighter color first, then the darker color unless separate stick blenders are used for each different color. The Cook Place both covered pots of soap mixture into pre-heated oven for 30-35 minutes (use timer). After 30-35 minutes, remove both pots from the oven to stir. Your soap will look like cookie dough and will be thick and somewhat difficult to stir. (Fig 2.1 & 2.2)
When stirring soap mixture, make certain to incorporate the bottom portion into the rest of your soap. Don't worry if some of the soap has already gelled (Fig 2.3 & 2.4)
After stirring, cover and place both pots back into the oven for an additional 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, remove both pots from the oven and stir. Your soap should look transparent and resemble applesauce (Fig 2.5 & 2.6)
Leave both pots uncovered for about 5 minutes to cool before including any additives. Note: Longer cooking and cooling times will be required for larger batches. Temperatures vary from oven to oven. Additives After cooling, add any fragrance, essential oils, herbs or botanicals to the soap mixtures. Gently "fold" additives into soap mixture to incorporate well into mixture. You may choose to add to the colored, uncolored or both pots of soap mixtures. Work quickly to prevent the soap mixtures from drying out (Fig 3.1). Note: Hawaiian Rain FO from Tradewinds Fragrance was added to the colored soap mixture.
Pouring Using a book, position the soap mold at a tilted angle (Fig 4.1). Pour or spoon about 1/3 of the colored gloppy soap mixture into a lined, wooden mold (Fig 4.2). Enough soap should be poured to cover the entire bottom of the mold to about half inch at its shallowest end. To eliminate any air pockets, tap the mold on your countertop a few times against the countertop and the book while holding the mold at a tilted angle. This also helps the soap mixture settle into the corners of the mold and smoothes out the surface of the soap. Note: Since I took a 10% water discount, my soap mixture will be dryer to work with.
Optional: For a straight layer, set soap mold on your countertop instead of propping it against a book before pouring the colored soap mixture. Swirling Using your ladle, create 4 to 5 "pockets" at the bottom of the pot of colored soap mixture. Scoop uncolored soap mixture into pockets. To swirl, place the ladle (upright) in the center of the pot. With your free hand, rotate the pot clockwise or counter-clockwise (whichever your preference) while pulling the ladle out towards the side of the pot. Make certain that the ladle is always in contact with the bottom of the pot. By doing this, you will be creating a spiral pattern in the soap mixture (Fig 4.3). Repeat this until you obtain the desired swirl effect. Work quickly to prevent the soap mixture from drying out. Note: This OHP method of swirl-in-the-pot came about as a matter of personal preference. I've experimented with plopping the different colored soap mixtures into the mold, but was never satisfied with the results of the finished patterns.
Carefully spoon the swirled soap mixture onto the layer of soap (Fig 4.4). To eliminate any air pockets, gently tap the mold on your countertop a few times so that the soap mixture settles into the corners of the mold.
Just before the soap mixture overflows on its deepest end, lay the soap mold flat on the countertop and quickly spoon the remaining soap mixture into the mold. Gently tap the mold on the countertop until the soap mixture is settled into all four corners of the mold. Optional: You can also add the swirled soap mixture to the soap mold before the uncolored soap mixture. Just add a portion of the colored soap mixture to the uncolored soap mixture, swirl and spoon into soap mold. Then add the remaining solid colored soap mixture over the swirled soap layer. Note: If I don't take a water discount, my soap mixture is always wet enough so that I just have to tap the mold on my countertop to help the soap mixture settle into the corners of the mold. If your soap is a bit on the dry side, use a wooden spatula to gently "press" the soap mixture into the corners and the bottom of the mold. Also, the total weight of oils used in this tutorial is slightly larger than the mold capacity in order to create excess soap at the top of the mold. This excess will be trimmed off later (refer to Fig 5.1). Do not cover or insulate (Fig 4.5). Place mold in a cool, dry area.
Finish After 6 hours, trim off excess from top of mold (Fig 5.1). After 8 hours, unmold and slice (Fig 5.2)
Air-drying time: 7 to 14 days.
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
